Combine settings

MrNoo

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Cirencester
In a perfect world , Heads should be still attached to the stalks and threshed out. But in reality it’s not going to happen on every plant. I like to start at the beginning and check the straw. If everything is threshed clean Wind should be next. Start as high as possible and drop it by 100 rpm until acceptable amount of clean threshed seed can be found behind.top seive or chaffer Open as much as possible to allow wind volume to carry out the light material. Closing it down speeds up the wind and will fire grain out. Bottom sieve closed enough to send part threshed to the returns. You’ll be playing with concave speed throughout the day. Higher moisture in the morning will be higher but if by mid afternoon it’s dry you may be cracking seed. here wheat can be hard to thresh and often my concave is nearly closed at around 7-8 mm And around 700 rpm. Speed cracks closeness threshed.
I open the concave throughout the day and in fit dry wheat 25 would be where it would be, just make sure it’s full, let the crop do the threshing
 

iaincr

Member
IMHO you should have the wind at about 1200rpm and the concave at position 3 for wheat.
Huge difference in recommended fan speed on the dominators depending on if they're 5 or 6 walker machines, of the top of my head I think recommended setting for wheat on my 88 is 750 but the book setting fir the 6 walker machines is something like 1100
 

Flatlander

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lorette Manitoba
I open the concave throughout the day and in fit dry wheat 25 would be where it would be, just make sure it’s full, let the crop do the threshing
In winter wheat it would be more open here in Manitoba. Spring wheat varies between varieties. Some are so hard the thresh ive used the intensive threshing segment a full set of concave filler plates and still see white caps. Faller the variety I’ve grown for the past seven years isn’t hard to thresh but I like to get it off with a good colour so going on the early side. As you say grain on grain is the best way to thresh.
 

iaincr

Member
On my dominator in wheat my lower sieve was at 10 mm top sieve at 13 mm fan about 820 rpm, drum 1150 rpm concave on second notch open (something like 12 at front 10 at back. Good sample.
I have given up trying to keep trash out by closing the bottom sieve. It slows you down far too much or you end up with too much ckean grain recirculated or lost. Use the fan to do the biggest part of the cleaning. That’s what I’ve learned. Empty heads should be flying out the back. It pays to walk alongside at the back (mind you dont get run over) and see how the trash is flowing. It should be flying, by and larger, not crawling over the sieves.
Do the numbers on the handle for adjusting bottom sieves on a dominator relate to any measurement?
 

kc6475

Member
Location
Notts
I seem to be struggling with sample and more losses than normal in wheat this year, tried every setting going and got it acceptable now. Ours is a NH CX and find that it loves to crack grains so I'm running drum 750 concave between 12 and 30 depending on conditions, sieves 10 and 7 and fan 800-850. Got it so I'm leaving full length straw with ear still on and grain threshed out so happy with that but can't get bits of stubble out the sample and losing too many good grains for my liking but maybe it's just one of those year's, least most of it is in the shed now.
 

Qman

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Near Derby
Huge difference in recommended fan speed on the dominators depending on if they're 5 or 6 walker machines, of the top of my head I think recommended setting for wheat on my 88 is 750 but the book setting fir the 6 walker machines is something like 1100

The book setting on my Dom 98 was 1200 for wheat, same for my Mega which is a tarted up Dom.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Do the numbers on the handle for adjusting bottom sieves on a dominator relate to any measurement?
Not in my exoerience. I set sieves using shims I made myself cut from steel plate of various thicknesses then I put corresponding marks on the handles that stick out the back using a drill to cut in a bit and and an all surface marker to make a dot that lines up with it where the handle comes though. Shim should just slide through at right opening. I’ve found tyre tread depth measuring devices to be crap as for one thing I can’t read them without my glasses and for another it depends where on the sieve finger you place the gauge as to the reading you get.
I set bottom sieve at 10mm now for all cereals. If there are unthreshed tips i thresh harder or drive faster to better fill the drum. Trying to keep unthreshed tips out by closing lower sieve cuts the sieve capacity too much and you have to drive slow to avoid overloading the returns. Driving slower worsens threshing which makes it even worse.
Sometimes in spring wheat that threshes badly, if I’ve plenty of time I’ll close the lower sieve, close the drum up and thresh hard but it really cuts capacity. I’d do it for home saved seed or something like that.
 

milton-95

Member
Location
aberdeenshire
I seem to be struggling with sample and more losses than normal in wheat this year, tried every setting going and got it acceptable now. Ours is a NH CX and find that it loves to crack grains so I'm running drum 750 concave between 12 and 30 depending on conditions, sieves 10 and 7 and fan 800-850. Got it so I'm leaving full length straw with ear still on and grain threshed out so happy with that but can't get bits of stubble out the sample and losing too many good grains for my liking but maybe it's just one of those year's, least most of it is in the shed now.

Had this on a cx 8060, asked about it on here and the general consensus was if your getting short stubble in the tank, then it's more than likely getting through those small wire bars at the end of the top seive, do you notice it get any worse after lifting at the end, more so on short work?

Ducttape over the bars was one remedy , but I seem to remember someone saying there's an actual blanking plate / rubber strip available for this.
 

iaincr

Member
Not in my exoerience. I set sieves using shims I made myself cut from steel plate of various thicknesses then I put corresponding marks on the handles that stick out the back using a drill to cut in a bit and and an all surface marker to make a dot that lines up with it where the handle comes though. Shim should just slide through at right opening. I’ve found tyre tread depth measuring devices to be crap as for one thing I can’t read them without my glasses and for another it depends where on the sieve finger you place the gauge as to the reading you get.
I set bottom sieve at 10mm now for all cereals. If there are unthreshed tips i thresh harder or drive faster to better fill the drum. Trying to keep unthreshed tips out by closing lower sieve cuts the sieve capacity too much and you have to drive slow to avoid overloading the returns. Driving slower worsens threshing which makes it even worse.
Sometimes in spring wheat that threshes badly, if I’ve plenty of time I’ll close the lower sieve, close the drum up and thresh hard but it really cuts capacity. I’d do it for home saved seed or something like that.
Thanks, wasn't sure if I was missing something. I do wonder how hard it would've been for class to put a mm scale on adjustment handles for reference 🤔I use tyre tread gauge for top sieve and understand what you mean about it being unreliable.
 

melted welly

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
DD9.
Had this on a cx 8060, asked about it on here and the general consensus was if your getting short stubble in the tank, then it's more than likely getting through those small wire bars at the end of the top seive, do you notice it get any worse after lifting at the end, more so on short work?

Ducttape over the bars was one remedy , but I seem to remember someone saying there's an actual blanking plate / rubber strip available for this.
Vague memory of this, was it to do with osr? We couldn’t get a clean sample so taped over the wire fingers, made a fair odds so made our own blanking plates, firstly from belting, now out of 5mm hard plastic.
 

Qman

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Near Derby
Dom 98 book setting for fan in wheat is 800. I normally set at 850 rpm. It’s 1200 rpm for Dom 118/108, a different beast.

I'm 99.999% sure I'm right, 800rpm is the setting for OSR, barley is 1100 and wheat is 1200. I drove one for years and always ran it at 1200. I wish I'd still got the book but it went with the combine to it's new owner.
 

kc6475

Member
Location
Notts
Had this on a cx 8060, asked about it on here and the general consensus was if your getting short stubble in the tank, then it's more than likely getting through those small wire bars at the end of the top seive, do you notice it get any worse after lifting at the end, more so on short work?

Ducttape over the bars was one remedy , but I seem to remember someone saying there's an actual blanking plate / rubber strip available for this.
Had this on a cx 8060, asked about it on here and the general consensus was if your getting short stubble in the tank, then it's more than likely getting through those small wire bars at the end of the top seive, do you notice it get any worse after lifting at the end, more so on short work?

Ducttape over the bars was one remedy , but I seem to remember someone saying there's an actual blanking plate / rubber strip available for this.
Yes I did tape those up for rape having heard it on here, but I took it off for wheat thinking it may not help with the losses, but I've some wheat left to cut so will tape them up again, leave the settings the same and see if it makes a difference.
 

iaincr

Member
I'm 99.999% sure I'm right, 800rpm is the setting for OSR, barley is 1100 and wheat is 1200. I drove one for years and always ran it at 1200. I wish I'd still got the book but it went with the combine to it's new owner.
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DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Thanks, wasn't sure if I was missing something. I do wonder how hard it would've been for class to put a mm scale on adjustment handles for reference 🤔I use tyre tread gauge for top sieve and understand what you mean about it being unreliable.
Tyre gauge is maybe OK for top sieve.
Problem with bottom sieve is it’s not easily accessible with top sieve in place. The other thing to consider is you have 2 bottom sieves set independently. I found ours didn’t even have same opening on each sieve for same handle position. It’s poor TBH.
 

iaincr

Member
Tyre gauge is maybe OK for top sieve.
Problem with bottom sieve is it’s not easily accessible with top sieve in place. The other thing to consider is you have 2 bottom sieves set independently. I found ours didn’t even have same opening on each sieve for same handle position. It’s poor TBH.
Must take the top sieve out someday and do some measuring then so👍 thanks for help
 

melted welly

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
DD9.
I made some out of some tin for a TF78. Used them on OSR but no reason not to try them in the O/Ps scenario.
Only use on osr, not had an issue in cereals unless, as said above, crop isn’t fit.

We’re close to the coast and if the sea haar comes in of an evening we can go from 4kph to 1.5 with overloaded returns in about 15mins.
 

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