- Location
- Yorkshire
One like this
i would of thought you want the best mower to cut grass, not be bought to take off in record time and back on! maybe im missing something! does a lot not depend on how big, tractor etc!
Have a 2022 class rear and front mower and find no problem.back mower let pressure of lifting ram by a rope mechanism and lower on to one leg . Front mower is no problem either ,no stand needed just lock the ram with lever( front mower is a mover)
The kv mowers front n back r pretty easy. Rear one sits on 3 folding stands folded up. No need to do Anything with pressure. Front on fold down 2 little stands and lock the frame and release the a frame n your off.
Yes they cut fine,but I only had them on demo and I was cutting easy 2nd cut grass going 22/23k sometimes! So can't comment on cutting heavy lying cropsSounds even better.
Guessing they cut as well as the trailed does?
I always think the secret to putting a mower on is taking it off correctly in the first place.
Amazing how many people don’t know you have to disconnect a spring or put a pin in somewhere to square take tension off headstock
First class (pun) at following the ground front is like back float’s on hydraulic suspension with brilliant movement in all undulating groundSounds good. What are they like for following undulating ground?
Great thank youFirst class (pun) at following the ground front is like back float’s on hydraulic suspension with brilliant movement in all undulating ground
Have used krone and Kuhn in the past with satisfaction but much prefer the class for cutting and following ground and seems easier driven also have topping skids which are easily fitted,does a good job as well but an expensive topper
Gmz, the problem is there a light mower with no conditioner, when hooking up or taking off, it seems to tighten itself, it's the bed that moves, it helps if you adjust the arms on the tractor when lifting. Sometimes it goes on quick, other times you could be pi##ing about for 15 minutes.Which model?
Your correct, on mine the tractor has to be bang on before you start, the arms will not lock in if your not, take a power harrow there is a tolerance you can get away with where the hooks just fall in. Even the stand on mine has no use, I will take a picture and show you.My Malone disc mower is an A1 beetch to put on.. I have kind of sussed it now, but if I break the correct procedure... I have been known to swear a tad....
Once you know you’ve got the lower arms in the right place, try putting the top link on after the first arm is latched, it will stop it rocking backwards.I don't have to do it or have done it that many times, thankfully, so I am not well versed.
Firstly need a bit of sleeper or block under back of mower to stop it falling back.
The ball pins are never quite equal heights, so one arm hitches up before the other. Obviously with the very nature of the mower, when lifting the arms to try and get the other on - it just pivots the headstock away.
No hydraulic link here - which would make it slightly less aggravating
I've had my claas off and on hundreds of times over the years and not once has it went backwards. Definitely no bits of wood etc used eitherI don't have to do it or have done it that many times, thankfully, so I am not well versed.
Firstly need a bit of sleeper or block under back of mower to stop it falling back.
The ball pins are never quite equal heights, so one arm hitches up before the other. Obviously with the very nature of the mower, when lifting the arms to try and get the other on - it just pivots the headstock away.
No hydraulic link here - which would make it slightly less aggravating
Without a hydraulic link, a piece of sleeper just makes it easierI've had my claas off and on hundreds of times over the years and not once has it went backwards. Definitely no bits of wood etc used either
No hydraulic top link till last year I've had a claas since 2012Without a hydraulic link, a piece of sleeper just makes it easier