Few tine drill builds here....how about a diy strip till?
- Thread starter Stuart J
- Start date
- Location
- northampton
Lad near me made one was in practical farm ideas @farmideas it was based on a superflo frame with a narrow point on and pigtail tine behind it
I'm thinking something light like a claydon, possibly with more stone protection than your example.
I demoed a claydon but stones are the issue. I like the idea of the twin tine kit for better row spacing for barley but can't see them being up to the job in stony going . I'd much rather like to see a simtech type inverted T tine used .
It was the amount it brought up but the demo was the standard A share machine . The twin tine set up just appears to use a straight triple K type which just don't last here ime , we've used them in past into cultivated soils so I really can't see them lasting in unmoved soil .
The simtech tine look far stronger so was just offering a possible option
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Yes . The deeper working a/r leg would run between the twin seed tine , so they are going in harder soil at the side.
The twin tine kit is two 44mm x 12mm hardened steel tines which are 4 times stronger than the the normal 30mm x 10mm tines. They also incorporate unique double-leaf helper springs which maintain a consistent seeding depth even in very dry hard conditions, but allow lateral movement to displace surface trach and prevent blockages. They have a 15mm Tungsten Tip Tine.
- Location
- northampton
If you got stone you’d be better off leaving them where they are and use a disc drill
farmideas
Member
- Location
- Herefordshire and West Wales
You'll find it in PFI 26-1 https://www.farmideas.co.uk/shop/product/101 may august 2017 vol 261/9699
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farmideas
Member
- Location
- Herefordshire and West Wales
Whether you build your direct drill or buy one new or second hand, the choice of disc or tine is fundamental. I detect a slight move away from discs with people moving from the John Deere 750 and similar to a tine which doesn't smear the seed slot. But then, as mentioned, the tine will both disturb the ground more and therefore encourage weed germination, and also lift stones. It really means the choice of drill is very dependent on soil conditions, probably more than any other implement, which maybe is why those farmers with one of each seem content with their choice! Would be very interested in hearing views of farmers, both with home built and manufacturered drills of all kinds. editorial(a)farmideas.co.uk
just thinking out loud but would a spring tine/heavy grubber leg work at the front and a Metcalfe/sabre leg work for seeding or even another spring tine set shallower at back? With 4/5” seed boots
- Location
- E Yorks
Sounds like a Claydon to me
Blatantly what I’m trying to copy, but should it be that easy? Where is the £50k in a drill like that. Tool bar I could have done for £5-6k plus whatever sort of hopper I choose will be extra after
Or even a sabre with 5” boots on back with a grubber with same spacing on front. Be an easy convert from strip to dd
- Location
- E Yorks
It’s as easy or complicated as you want it to be and costs accordingly. A rigid frame over a folding frame saves a big chunk and a load of complication. S/h accord hopper with old style btc electrics, hyd fan and land wheel drive saves a packet. Simple home made seeding boots as against Bourgault’s finest saves again. Non hyd reset legs and no tungsten carbide again saves a lot. And the biggest saving is no cost of sale (development, demo, brochure, show stand, wine and dine client) followed by warranty contingency. That’s just a few savings over the all singing all dancing manufactured machine against the home build but on the other hand there are a few minuses. Untried design, cost of fine tuning and development, no fallback and minimal resale value.
I’m not saying it’s a bad idea far from it but you need to go in with your eyes open as a friend of mine says
“If it was that easy anybody could do it!”
I’m not saying it’s a bad idea far from it but you need to go in with your eyes open as a friend of mine says
“If it was that easy anybody could do it!”
Very true!!
ive a lot of idea. Just have to rationalise it down and hopefully have a thread up shortly.
Least minimum resale value isn’t a problem when you count depreciation of a new one. And if the worst comes to worst you’ve just got an expensive grubber
- Location
- Top of the Chilterns
I have a project brewing in this line- someone else has done the hard work, but basics are:
Rigid frame shakearator
Extra beam added at the back, no packer.
333mm spacing of shakey legs, over 2 rows.
1 inch pigtail on the row behind each shakey leg
Bougault adaptors and seed boots on pigtails.
Accord hopper stuck on top, with hydraulic fan and landwheel.
Rear drawbar nicked of simba discs.
2 row flexicoil packer on a long pivoting up drawbar (Courtesy of @grainboy)
Row of covering harrows on beam in front of flexicoil.
Going to drop the pigtails lower, and put wider sweeps on etc:
Rigid frame shakearator
Extra beam added at the back, no packer.
333mm spacing of shakey legs, over 2 rows.
1 inch pigtail on the row behind each shakey leg
Bougault adaptors and seed boots on pigtails.
Accord hopper stuck on top, with hydraulic fan and landwheel.
Rear drawbar nicked of simba discs.
2 row flexicoil packer on a long pivoting up drawbar (Courtesy of @grainboy)
Row of covering harrows on beam in front of flexicoil.
Going to drop the pigtails lower, and put wider sweeps on etc:
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