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I roll them when they've emerged , just turn slowlyJust finished drilling grass seeds in the rain, can't roll them in now but supposed to be drier next week so how long can I leave them until I roll, would a week be a bit dodgy?
24-48 hours at a push, you run the risk of buggering them up if they get rolled after they have chitted.Just finished drilling grass seeds in the rain, can't roll them in now but supposed to be drier next week so how long can I leave them until I roll, would a week be a bit dodgy?
That's what I thought. I generally roll seeds in the spring as well as in the autumn as stones always stand proud after winter. Just wondered how quickly they will come through.If they starting to come through don't roll , seed coming through in 5 days atm, leave it till the spring if you miss it , won't it any good rolling after emergence
Oh, no....The most important point is to roll before you sow on
Should be fine ,did you get that rain last night, we worked like mad yesterday, just managed to get 15 acres finished just as it started to rain, weatherman got it right for once , nice feeling this morning, seed was flying out of the yard as well so a lot doing the sameThat's what I thought. I generally roll seeds in the spring as well as in the autumn as stones always stand proud after winter. Just wondered how quickly they will come through.
Oh, no....
Couple of passes with the packer roller though?
Seems fairly firm.
If your roller is pushing a ridge of sand it's not firm enough beforehandThreads like this never mention soil type which is surely important! I am on sand, finding a stone is quite an occasion. An advisor said to use the tractor wheel to roll. Tedious but it does work best. A ballast roller just pushes a little ridge of sand in front of it and doesn't compress as well. The whole point is to maintain contact between the seed and moist earth without drying out which will kill the seedlings.
Do it when it’s damp, I have some pure pure sand (finer than sand blasting sand) and you have to work it when damp or direct drill. Used a vaderstad this year to DD grass, a simba solo set of discs did nothing and couldn’t turn the sand over it just made slots like a disc drill when dry.Threads like this never mention soil type which is surely important! I am on sand, finding a stone is quite an occasion. An advisor said to use the tractor wheel to roll. Tedious but it does work best. A ballast roller just pushes a little ridge of sand in front of it and doesn't compress as well. The whole point is to maintain contact between the seed and moist earth without drying out which will kill the seedlings.
Is it not the power harrow that's causing you surface capping ,dreadful tool imowe cannot flat roll behind grass seed, if it rains, soil will cap, and take is poor, so camebridge roll. But l am wondering if we get the seed bed, as firm as we should, pre drill, which is difficult here, as minimal working, is requires, otherwise, by the time you drill, it's like an onion bed, and, if it rains, it sets like concrete. We try and avoid ploughing, and find either min-til or dd works well, we have our own, old vaderstat drill, and that actually does a good job firming up, behind it, esp if we cross drill.
The use of a p/harrow is pretty universal now, but, in the good old days, we would have had to do several more passes, with discs etc, to get a decent seed bed, did those extra passes, make the seed bed much firmer ? The p/harrow, is a great tool, but does it leave the soil firm enough ? It looks great, but esp using contractors, who want to be in, and gone, in shortest, least diesel, time.
The cost of reseeding, is such, that we cannot afford not to do it correctly.
Wtf!I roll them when they've emerged , just turn slowly
no, just can't work the soil to many times, p/harrow, has made life easier, in some ways, it's only 1 pass, whereas 'conventional' was several, so to fine a tilth is avoided, but it is a compromise.Is it not the power harrow that's causing you surface capping ,dreadful tool imo
But a power harrow will beat it finer with one pass than a conventional harrow with 6 , that's why I don't like ploughing, I can avoid using one thenno, just can't work the soil to many times, p/harrow, has made life easier, in some ways, it's only 1 pass, whereas 'conventional' was several, so to fine a tilth is avoided, but it is a compromise.
p/h and vaderstat, cross drilled, is a very good compromise, in ploughed fields, leaves a firm finish, and the ring roller after. Best idea, is to avoid ploughing, not always possible though.
the main difference between PH and cultivator is the power harrow will leave it reasonably fluffy to its depthit's easier not to plough. However, 1 pass with p/h, doesn't knock it about like several passes conventional, but the ley sown now, nicely up in line, so couldn't be to bad !