When does a tractor roll?

curlietailz

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Sedgefield
Somat about when the centre of gravity of the tractor combo moves beyond the outside edge of the wheel
Make the centre of gravity as low as possible and the steepness it takes to tip is greater
 

Bertram

Member
That’s about as far as I’m comfortable with and only because I know my ground, though allegedly you can take it to 45 degrees. Rest of it gets reversed up. Rightly or wrongly I’ve always felt safer backing up the steep bits. As soon as it feels like it’s starting to lose grip it’s time to come back down again, and facing downhill feels to me as if there’s more control. 4wd though, and weighted front.
6259A913-0D39-4B73-B426-39F6C7F477BE.jpeg
 

Wombat

Member
BASIS
Location
East yorks
The things to consider for a tractor to roll over sideways are that the mass of the tractor has to go outside a line from the front axle pivot to the middle of the rear wheel contact patch. A sort of 3d V. So if you can keep the rear axle track as wide as possible, the mass fairly low and also critically as far back as possible (the closer to the front of the V the more unstable it becomes) so big front weights, front loaders really count against for side on.

But if you are not comfortable or feel safe then as others have said its not worth the risk
 

Grassman

Member
Location
Derbyshire
I only have one part of a field that is too steep to be comfortable. That isn't nice with 10 tonnes of big baler pushing the tractor and no flat bit to turn on:sick:
 

puppet

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
sw scotland
That’s about as far as I’m comfortable with and only because I know my ground, though allegedly you can take it to 45 degrees. Rest of it gets reversed up. Rightly or wrongly I’ve always felt safer backing up the steep bits. As soon as it feels like it’s starting to lose grip it’s time to come back down again, and facing downhill feels to me as if there’s more control. 4wd though, and weighted front.
View attachment 900600
Stick a protractor on that and you are no more than 25 degrees I would say You can barely walk up a 45 deg slope. It would be the same as driving along my silage pit earth bank
 

simmy_bull

Member
Location
North Yorkshire
That’s about as far as I’m comfortable with and only because I know my ground, though allegedly you can take it to 45 degrees. Rest of it gets reversed up. Rightly or wrongly I’ve always felt safer backing up the steep bits. As soon as it feels like it’s starting to lose grip it’s time to come back down again, and facing downhill feels to me as if there’s more control. 4wd though, and weighted front.
View attachment 900600
That actually looks steep and it doesn’t normally in photos!!
 

Bald n Grumpy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Always told us in college to keep the cab empty and in cab tool boxes fastened shut in case of tipping or rolling as that adjustable wrench or spare drawbar pin could give you a hell of a headache a bit like a stray nut and bolt in the washing machine
 

renewablejohn

Member
Location
lancs
Why on earth buy a 35 if you know you want to use it on steep land. Alpine tractors are designed for the job and can go on crazy slopes. If the slope gets to crazy then just use a remote. Life is to short to be using equipment not designed for the job.
 

Poorbuthappy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Devon
Why on earth buy a 35 if you know you want to use it on steep land. Alpine tractors are designed for the job and can go on crazy slopes. If the slope gets to crazy then just use a remote. Life is to short to be using equipment not designed for the job.
Because the way I read the op they'd already got the tractor and have recently taken on extra ground.
 

Bertram

Member
Stick a protractor on that and you are no more than 25 degrees I would say You can barely walk up a 45 deg slope. It would be the same as driving along my silage pit earth bank

You’re quite possibly right, I certainly wouldn’t be going across a 1 in 2 slope, that one in the picture is where I stop. But I was told by a jd engineer who I trust that it’s physically possible, before tipping. Assuming no tyre issues, badger holes or anything else of course.

I think the biggest risk is complacency and over confidence. I know I push my luck sometimes to get the job done, and i shouldn’t.
 

thesilentone

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Cumbria
Lot's of good advice, and pictures. But, one mans slope is another man's mountain, and vice versa, so experience is everything.

Their are two trains of thought, the practical and the legal. Those who regularly work on slopes (especially grass) know what to expect and when/when not to make a manoeuvre. For example going down a wet slop covered in lush grass after a shower.

Many will know on some occasions it is safer to go down on a angle due to the severity of a slow.

Reaching the limits is NOT advisable.

Remember, you are (or should be) insured, if you take risks and god forbid an accident happens, the first thing the Insurers will reach for is the HSE's advice for the operation were doing.
 

Poorbuthappy

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Devon
Well thats even worse. Why take on land that your current equipment is not able to farm safely unless there is a plan to replace with equipment that can carry out the work safely.
I think you're over reacting.
The op came on for some advice. Good advice has followed which they have acknowledged.
They now have a choice of ignoring it, upgrading their kit, hiring, getting a contractor, not topping or ....?
 
There's no definate answer to 'when will a tractor roll' whey to many variables.
Grandfather sent me and my cousin on an ATB course on hillside driving when we were in our teens, taught us to set up the tractor, by either widening the wheel track or fitting twin wheels, and ballasting it correctly for the job, and never put all your faith in the 4wd system of your tractor.
I used to run a Ford 7610 widened out to the widest but one setting, a set of wheels weights on the rear and a full set of weights on the front and it did the job grand for 20 odd years. Last year I upgraded to a Ford 6640 turbo, and managed to find a set of stocks stepdown duals at the same time, so decided to keep the tractor at a fairly narrow setting and use the duals for the hillside work.
IMG_20200520_183814572_HDR.jpg

So off I go with my new tractor set up with the duals, and start spreading fertiliser on my steepest field. Went up the field no problem, came down the otherside as I had always done , and off she goes like a sledge, back wheels skidding on the grass, front wheels just rolling along, and a huge clattering noise coming from the gearbox. Now having the duals allowed me to turn the tractor across the slope and come to a safe stop.
Turns out it's a common fault on the Ford 40 series with four wheel braking, that on yard work with the 4wd being engaged every time you press the brakes, the dog clutch wears, it still gives you 4wd driving forward, but the dog clutch slips on overun.
Screenshot_20200812-095450.png

It was wake up call, knowing things can go wrong, nevermind how many times you have done it before.
I've built up experience here at home, and I know my fields pretty well. I know what window I have depending on the weather to go on the steepest parts, wouldn't dream of going on unknown steep fields, don't know what's waiting for you.
Ask yourself does the field does the field really need doing, is it worth the risk ?
Maybe get someone in to do it ?
Got this chap here in north Wales

 
Last edited:

farmerm

Member
Location
Shropshire
I say just graze it harder and fk worrying about topping it. If it feels unsafe it probably is! The return on your time and effort of topping such ground will be miniscule whilst the cost of rolling could be very high on financial, limb and life terms... Whilst a machine may be safe to a certain point you need to allow a reasonable margin of error. When operating too close to the limits putting a wheel on an ant hill or in a small depression in the ground is all it takes.
 

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