How do people treat/store on farm barley with home and dry?
Does treated grain go off? How quick does it need to be used by?
What moisture content does the barley need to be at prior to treatment?
I treat about 10-12t a year, and any carry over stays in the back of the shed with a sheet over it until the following year. I can’t say that I’ve noticed it ‘going off’ at all.
I mix it on a concrete floor with a telehandler bucket. Mix it up well, then push it up in a heap in the corner (concrete panels on two sides, sheeted straw bales on the other). If you want to be really thorough you could use a feeder wagon with a weigher, but I would have to borrow one.
Pull a plastic sheet over it and leave for 10-14 days. Job done.
I’ve made it with barley anywhere from 15-18%, but can go wetter I think. Add water if it’s too dry.
The manufacturers are very helpful with phone advice if you’re unsure.
no...you don't need that much....they'll advise youCheers....its dry....near 10%.
Id need a hose pipe on it I would think!
I’d prefer it nearer 20% than 10%,it need the moisture to work.
I’d mix it in a mixer wagon and add some water.Weather at harvest here pulled moisture right back, was hoping for nearer 15% but no chance
I’d go with this. They’ll tell you how much water you need to add per ton to get it to what it works best at. But is there any need to treat the stuff if its that dry? If its simply to just raise the protein couldn’t you just mix some with straight urea?I’d mix it in a mixer wagon and add some water.
How much £ it ?How do people treat/store on farm barley with home and dry?
Does treated grain go off? How quick does it need to be used by?
What moisture content does the barley need to be at prior to treatment?
Straight urea wouldn’t break the husk though.I’d go with this. They’ll tell you how much water you need to add per ton to get it to what it works best at. But is there any need to treat the stuff if its that dry? If its simply to just raise the protein couldn’t you just mix some with straight urea?
Circa £1300/t for home n dry,30kg per ton or there abouts needed.How much £ it ?
I understand that. Do you not still roll the barley to feed it? I meant add it when you feed it. Its not like you need to use it for the barley to keep & unless feeding high rates its hardly worth the hassle (in my opinion) just to make it more alkaline.Straight urea wouldn’t break the husk though.
I understand that. Do you not still roll the barley to feed it? I meant add it when you feed it. Its not like you need to use it for the barley to keep & unless feeding high rates its hardly worth the hassle (in my opinion) just to make it more alkaline.
Is home and dry just a different type of Propino ?
We’ve used maxammon in the past so understand how it works. Was more questioning the reason for treating it as some reasons are more viable than others depending on its use.The urea in the Home n' Dry reacts with the moisture in the grain top produce ammonia, which treats the grain. There is no urea in the finished product, so a lot safer than feeding urea by mixing it at the point of use.
If you are feeding it to sheep, the grain doesn't need processing at all. Just treat whole and feed as is.
another reason imo why adding water in @Jerry 's case is a good one is because will make the grain more suitable for feeding whole because it sounds like its so very dry and thats not good because doesn't allow the nutrients out of the whole grain and some will be passed out 'unused' in the dung ie wasted.We’ve used maxammon in the past so understand how it works. Was more questioning the reason for treating it as some reasons are more viable than others depending on its use.
I try to avoid sheep at all costs so I’ve learnt something new today & makes sense if you can also avoid rolling costs