Home and Dry

Jerry

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Devon
How do people treat/store on farm barley with home and dry?

Does treated grain go off? How quick does it need to be used by?

What moisture content does the barley need to be at prior to treatment?
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
How do people treat/store on farm barley with home and dry?

Does treated grain go off? How quick does it need to be used by?

What moisture content does the barley need to be at prior to treatment?

I treat about 10-12t a year, and any carry over stays in the back of the shed with a sheet over it until the following year. I can’t say that I’ve noticed it ‘going off’ at all.

I mix it on a concrete floor with a telehandler bucket. Mix it up well, then push it up in a heap in the corner (concrete panels on two sides, sheeted straw bales on the other). If you want to be really thorough you could use a feeder wagon with a weigher, but I would have to borrow one.
Pull a plastic sheet over it and leave for 10-14 days. Job done.👍

I’ve made it with barley anywhere from 15-18%, but can go wetter I think. Add water if it’s too dry.

The manufacturers are very helpful with phone advice if you’re unsure.
 

Jerry

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Devon
I treat about 10-12t a year, and any carry over stays in the back of the shed with a sheet over it until the following year. I can’t say that I’ve noticed it ‘going off’ at all.

I mix it on a concrete floor with a telehandler bucket. Mix it up well, then push it up in a heap in the corner (concrete panels on two sides, sheeted straw bales on the other). If you want to be really thorough you could use a feeder wagon with a weigher, but I would have to borrow one.
Pull a plastic sheet over it and leave for 10-14 days. Job done.👍

I’ve made it with barley anywhere from 15-18%, but can go wetter I think. Add water if it’s too dry.

The manufacturers are very helpful with phone advice if you’re unsure.

Cheers....its dry....near 10%.

Id need a hose pipe on it I would think!
 

MJT

Member
Used last year and had to water it as too dry , attached lance to sprayer and gave it a good spray as mixed it with bucket . Put maybe 200 litres on 35 ton, worked well .
 

Wesley

Member
I’d mix it in a mixer wagon and add some water.
I’d go with this. They’ll tell you how much water you need to add per ton to get it to what it works best at. But is there any need to treat the stuff if its that dry? If its simply to just raise the protein couldn’t you just mix some with straight urea?
 

Blue.

Member
Livestock Farmer
I’d go with this. They’ll tell you how much water you need to add per ton to get it to what it works best at. But is there any need to treat the stuff if its that dry? If its simply to just raise the protein couldn’t you just mix some with straight urea?
Straight urea wouldn’t break the husk though.
How much £ it ?
Circa £1300/t for home n dry,30kg per ton or there abouts needed.
 

Wesley

Member
Straight urea wouldn’t break the husk though.
I understand that. Do you not still roll the barley to feed it? I meant add it when you feed it. Its not like you need to use it for the barley to keep & unless feeding high rates its hardly worth the hassle (in my opinion) just to make it more alkaline.
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
I understand that. Do you not still roll the barley to feed it? I meant add it when you feed it. Its not like you need to use it for the barley to keep & unless feeding high rates its hardly worth the hassle (in my opinion) just to make it more alkaline.

The urea in the Home n' Dry reacts with the moisture in the grain top produce ammonia, which treats the grain. There is no urea in the finished product, so a lot safer than feeding urea by mixing it at the point of use.

If you are feeding it to sheep, the grain doesn't need processing at all. Just treat whole and feed as is.
 

Wesley

Member
The urea in the Home n' Dry reacts with the moisture in the grain top produce ammonia, which treats the grain. There is no urea in the finished product, so a lot safer than feeding urea by mixing it at the point of use.

If you are feeding it to sheep, the grain doesn't need processing at all. Just treat whole and feed as is.
We’ve used maxammon in the past so understand how it works. Was more questioning the reason for treating it as some reasons are more viable than others depending on its use.
I try to avoid sheep at all costs so I’ve learnt something new today & makes sense if you can also avoid rolling costs 👍
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
We’ve used maxammon in the past so understand how it works. Was more questioning the reason for treating it as some reasons are more viable than others depending on its use.
I try to avoid sheep at all costs so I’ve learnt something new today & makes sense if you can also avoid rolling costs 👍
another reason imo why adding water in @Jerry 's case is a good one is because will make the grain more suitable for feeding whole because it sounds like its so very dry and thats not good because doesn't allow the nutrients out of the whole grain and some will be passed out 'unused' in the dung ie wasted.
Whole grain feeding to sheep ime is best around 17/ 18 % moisture which will tie in nicely with H& D treatment .
The amount of water to add via a hose pipe is fairly straightforward to work out and as said above a feeder wagon with a weigher working is an ideal way to accurately add that water and mix as well.
 
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