Holland new
New Member
Hi, as the title says, looking for the best baler for haylage and straw, budget about £40000
Thanks in advance
SR
Thanks in advance
SR
If baling haylage , you want to stay away from a Mf baler , unless you want want to be under it all day with a chainsaw cleaning it out , you want a Krone or claasHi, as the title says, looking for the best baler for haylage and straw, budget about £40000
Thanks in advance
SR
If baling haylage , you want to stay away from a Mf baler , unless you want want to be under it all day with a chainsaw cleaning it out , you want a Krone or claas
Just wetter...Must have funny grass up your way. Baled haylage with Hessons here since 1995 and no issues. Even when we ran Krones we still baled the haylage with a Hesston machine.
Just wetter...
Where’s your marketing for bales ??Hi, as the title says, looking for the best baler for haylage and straw, budget about £40000
Thanks in advance
SR
Didn’t say dripping …Haylage isn’t supposed to be dripping wet
I have never figured out why my new holland gives variable bale lengths.Massey any day I can't beat it with any thing else for appetite and running cost always found krone expensive to maintain couldn't get new Holland to keep a regular bale length also ran a welga for a few years but think the less said about that the better
Is there a drop floor or a reverser or how does it unblock from the seat? Spend far to many hrs unblocking a Newholland to want another.Probabaly agree with all the above
Had a case 80x90 and it was cheap to run but was swapped for a krone 890 then we were baling twice as fast, if it blocked it was cleared from the seat in seconds.
It does cost more to run but it does more work and is more complex. When the time comes to changing I would be looking for the same again.
Is there a drop floor or a reverser or how does it unblock from the seat? Spend far to many hrs unblocking a Newholland to want another.
Thank you. So might not be quite perfect then.You drop the revs, the torque increases, the clutch reengages and drags it through.
All sounds ideal, but the massive forces involved can be big bills. The lump can bust welds on the VFS floor, the VFS gearbox can fail.
When either happens, its a bad job - 24hrs digging out dry straw, god knows what it’d be like in anything wet.
A reverser on the pickup would be a much better idea.
You drop the revs, the torque increases, the clutch reengages and drags it through.
All sounds ideal, but the massive forces involved can be big bills. The lump can bust welds on the VFS floor, the VFS gearbox can fail.
When either happens, its a bad job - 24hrs digging out dry straw, god knows what it’d be like in anything wet.
A reverser on the pickup would be a much better idea.
Not really looking to beat any records, it’s just to do my own stuff steady away, 500 haylage and 1000 straw, it’s just impossible to get a contractor when you need the stuff bailed.Probabaly agree with all the above
Had a case 80x90 and it was cheap to run but was swapped for a krone 890 then we were baling twice as fast, if it blocked it was cleared from the seat in seconds.
It does cost more to run but it does more work and is more complex. When the time comes to changing I would be looking for the same again.
Just for my own use, just can not get a contractor when you need one, probably only do 1500 bales a year.Where’s your marketing for bales ??
Really think about your customers needs bale size will be your most important decision you will make rather then make of baler
Is your straw market volume based if is then you may be better off getting someone in to bale the straw
Trust me it is great...It all sounded like a great system- unblocking from the seat etc- until you talk about it in these terms... Electric chainsaw maybe and a bar to dig it out rather than rely on brute force to take a lump in. What if the problem is a solid lump between the plunger and the chamber- whole load of Ooof when something has to give and go bang.