Cheap drill system for 200 acres

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
We don’t sell poorly sprung disc coulters . Our Suffolk’s has 20kg downforce, our twin disc has 50kg down force our best seller has 100kg down force
Not everybody does!

but from what I’ve seen disc coulters do need much higher spring pressures than Suffolk’s due to the suffolk pulling thru the ground whereas the disc will ride over the top unless it has the weight to cut in.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
4m old style trailed Moore unidrill here. You can drill ploughed land, min tilled or direct but doesn’t like wet clay....nothing does though. Old unidrills won’t drill beans as seed tubes not big enough. Plough beans in. We also have an MF30 as an alternative. Haven’t used it for 15 years.
All drills rely on the operator needing good judgement as to what is a viable seedbed to drill into. I haven’t seen a drill yet that is foolproof.
 

Hereward

Member
Location
Peterborough
I was thinking of asking the same question.
200acres; 130/140hp available (no front linkage); £8k budget; ww, barley and beans.
18m tramlines

We currently plough, work down then drill with 6m vicon lz. My thinking was to spend less time on the whole job (200 acres unfortunately isnt a great payer) so move away from the plough. Maybe a tine drill - simple, quick, low maintenance
Tine drill, like a KV TS, you can pick one up in budget, they will drill into anything, very simple, accord metering and high output.
 

Zippy768

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Dorset/Wilts
Tine drill, like a KV TS, you can pick one up in budget, they will drill into anything, very simple, accord metering and high output.
Been looking for one. A few more KRMs about, some have the cultivation bar in front.

Issue I have is the 18m tramlines. Wont pull a 6m and 4m dont go into 18. Do not fancy following a light bar all spring trying to make tramlines ?
 

Zippy768

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Dorset/Wilts
Simpleton question alert:-
What are the main differences between a tine drill (kv ts, krm sola, megent) and a tined machine like a Horsch 3co and claydon, as @Clive suggested?
What are you getting on one variety that your not on another?
 

robin banks

Member
Location
Ireland
sell everything and buy a used 3m claydon SR or horsch Co3

then in 5 years sell and buy a used 3m 750a

thank me later ! (your fuel and parts suppliers won’t ! )
Why do you do a step towards a jd750a is it cost or do you need to do a natural progression towards dd for the land to adapt. Does it make any difference that this land was all in long term ley.
Looked up them Drills and horsch can be got within budget and don't seem Power hungry. But can it do a satisfactory job on heavy clay. And what sort of pre drilling cultivating would need to be done. A lot of the videos I have watched all seem to have been cultivated beforehand.
 

Benjio

Member
We have downscaled over years from 3000 acres at our peak down to 80 now, tried alsorts, and gone for a cheap old 4 metre vaddy. Had lots of different cultivators, our current setup is a 5 leg 2.5metre shakerator (which we are looking to convert to tilso low disturbance legs, weaving short disc and the vaddy drill.

We are on Very heavy clay, wanting to short disc after harvest, spray for BG if needed, subsoil if needed, short disc again then drill. We had abused the land but now doing a straw for muck exchange with local beef/ sheep farmer and now our land is getting much better condition. Our clay is horrid to plough and want to leave soil and not disturb it if possible and hopefully get to point where we can just DD it.
 

john63

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
East Lincs
Well we drill about 150 acres/year with a MF500 and get on well with it. We are on heavy clay. Last autumn we were able to drill, where our neighbours with cultivator drills weren't. We do use the power harrow if needed, but it's nice not to have to as with a combi drill. If I had £8k to spend on a drill I'd find the best 4m MF500 that I could, replace all the discs, bearings and coulter pivots, convert it to seed only - then put the rest of the money in the bank.

If you did want to have the option of a single pass, then perhaps a power harrow with the drill on a bridge link?
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Well we drill about 150 acres/year with a MF500 and get on well with it. We are on heavy clay. Last autumn we were able to drill, where our neighbours with cultivator drills weren't. We do use the power harrow if needed, but it's nice not to have to as with a combi drill. If I had £8k to spend on a drill I'd find the best 4m MF500 that I could, replace all the discs, bearings and coulter pivots, convert it to seed only - then put the rest of the money in the bank.

If you did want to have the option of a single pass, then perhaps a power harrow with the drill on a bridge link?
Are 500s much better than 30s?
 

Clive

Staff Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lichfield
Why do you do a step towards a jd750a is it cost or do you need to do a natural progression towards dd for the land to adapt. Does it make any difference that this land was all in long term ley.
Looked up them Drills and horsch can be got within budget and don't seem Power hungry. But can it do a satisfactory job on heavy clay. And what sort of pre drilling cultivating would need to be done. A lot of the videos I have watched all seem to have been cultivated beforehand.

straight from plough and heavy tillage to low disturbance no till is a big step that most can’t cope with - it is possible on the right soils but probably means a few fails along the road

going via a strip cultivation system like claydon etc makes the transition easier really

A co when converted with points like VOS or dutch etc will do basically the same job direct as a claydon so suggested as it could be a cheaper route for you if budget is limited

only other tool i would have is a set of good heavy rolls
 
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