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Chicory is also deep rooting.
Do you use extra wrap on the bales?
We did use more wrap, but now have enough to clamp instead. We have dropped beet, and gone for lucerne as digester food as well as cow food. Slightly less gas yield than maize, but very much lower cost per acre, and after 6 years a fantastic crop to strip till maize into. We did not feed baled lucerne to the digester as chop length was too great.Do you use extra wrap on the bales?
Chicory is also deep rooting.
First field we ran for 5 years, could have been longer. Will try 6 with our established 30 acres. The 15 acres established this spring is doing well despite the drought, we will get one decent cut off it, possibly 2. The established crop we get 4 cuts, 15-18 tonnes / acre at about 33% dry matter, less on the 4th cut as it is hard to get a wilt.Lucerne isn't the quickest plant to establish, being a perennial. How long a ley do you use?
Unfortunately you still need soil, but it will keep going much longer than grass or anything except possibly chicory.
Photos taken 10m apart on our thinnest field which is Cotswold brash running up hill to clay then sand, called Quarry piece!
We usually cut and clamp it when we do all the other silage.late in the season if only lucerne is growing we bale it, before it flowers so not too stemmy. Needs to be nearly hay or it can turn to black mush but is great chopped in a manger to firm the cows up.
Organic, works well on dry ground in rotation opposite red clover. We don,t graze mainly because of the distance from the dairy. I would be nervous about bloat but also the high protein levels. If I did we would pre mow and wilt.
can get weedy, docks will germinate within it as sward gets older but I am sure there are people who manage it better than me.
It has to be looked after carefully but will give enormous yields.
Haylage would be difficult - once cut you do not want to move it to let the bottom dry, or else you get leaf shatter of the dry stuff and lose all the goodness. If you want it dryer than silage, barn drying is really the only option.Would lucerne haylage be any good for ewes or finishing lambs?
I saw some on some fairly crap ground on Sunday, and it was a foot tall, and fast approaching it's second cut, and having had no inputs.
It occurred to me that I could find some similar ground quite easily, that has so far only produced half a first cut of second year ryegrass haylage, having had plenty of inputs; and there will probably not be a worthwhile second cut at all.
A dose of digestate or slurry works well in Spring, and after each cutYou can control weeds in lucerneish if you have access to spruce.
If you aren't organic, you can put a modest dose of nitrogen on to it first thing in spring as the soil could be too cold to do much at first.
4 or 5 yearsHow many years do you leave it down?
It is ok to turn it in the morning when dew is still on it.Haylage would be difficult - once cut you do not want to move it to let the bottom dry, or else you get leaf shatter of the dry stuff and lose all the goodness. If you want it dryer than silage, barn drying is really the only option.
grandfather used to have lucerne points for grubber would not be much wider. than yer fingersIf you have an older stand of Lucerne with strong crowns, give the stand a grubbing with fine points (as narrow as you can get) over the winter if the soil is in friable condition. Grub the stand in at least two directions down no deeper than 10 cms. The odd crown will get knocked off, but it doesn't harm the rest.
As a young fella I worked on a farm with Lucerne stands in NZ's Awatere district in Marlborough, the stands given this annual treatment were all over 70 years old and had hay followed by seed harvested. The next generation used spray and grubbing on the same stands for the next 2 decades until converted into a vineyard.