Killing peas

[Fish]

All credit to you Fish. Wish I could grow a crop of peas like those with no till. Will be sowing Daytone again this season. Like to get them combined early and get a first wheat in ( haven't found a better break crop than peas yet). Would be interested to know how long you've been on zero till? And what drill you're using?

2020 will be year 5, the drill is a jd, but that's unimportant, near neighbor runs a sprinter, a few others run claydons, they all work.

 

[Two Tone]

I’m planning 120 ha of large blue peas next year. With the demise of Reglone am I mad to think glyphosate will kill them? The attraction of Reglone was its ability to burn the foliage to a crisp in a few days. I’ve sprayed off some cover crop recently that had a few peas in the mix, everything is now dead apart from the peas which are still remarkably green .

I have farmed Combining peas both here and in Suffolk. I’ve never needed to use Reglone or Roundup before harvesting any of them.
But, they day they are ready, you must stop harvesting anything else and get them.
I’ve often wondered if Podstick would be any use on them.
However, the reason you need to get them the day they are fit is because if you don’t, they will go flat and wreck your Combine, trying to pick them up.

 

[Farma Parma]

I have farmed Combining peas both here and in Suffolk. I’ve never needed to use Reglone or Roundup before harvesting any of them.
But, they day they are ready, you must stop harvesting anything else and get them.
I’ve often wondered if Podstick would be any use on them.
However, the reason you need to get them the day they are fit is because if you don’t, they will go flat and wreck your Combine, trying to pick them up.

Your no far wrong about the cutting of Peas
Neighbour who does all my combining now, knows all about them
sometimes we switch from wheat to peas then back to wheat on same day, if this is convenient of course
5-6hrs i middle sunniest part of the day thats about ya whack with them

 

[Pilatus]

Slightly off topic.
Although expensive,I recommend the Canadian "FLEXXIFINGERS" (www.flexxifinger.com) for combine harvesting flat peas. The Flexxifingers take a bit of time and effort to set up but they are certainly a great help,we cut nearly 200 acres flat peas this year. Another tip don't be afraid to fill your combine grain tank with a few "ICB TANK " fulls of water to loosen the dirt/mud that gradually builds up on the bubble up auger and grain tank unloading augers. Ideally put couple of ICB tanks through the system before you go home at night ,the water soaks in the dirt/mud overnight, and then put another couple of tank fulls through the system in the morning. A small amount of pea grit helps to take the last of the mud out of the system. The afore mentioned has worked for us the last two seasons,it may seem brutal but it works.

 

[Fish]

I have farmed Combining peas both here and in Suffolk. I’ve never needed to use Reglone or Roundup before harvesting any of them.
But, they day they are ready, you must stop harvesting anything else and get them.
I’ve often wondered if Podstick would be any use on them.
However, the reason you need to get them the day they are fit is because if you don’t, they will go flat and wreck your Combine, trying to pick them up.

Yes when peas are ready, harvest them because you may not get a second chance.
Re flat peas and killing combines, I have noticed that since moving to no till, harvesting peas is much easy and the amount of soil entering the harvester has been reduced to almost zero because the ground is harder so the lifters work and don't try and dive all the time + forward speed is higher.

 

[Farma Parma]

Yes when peas are ready, harvest them because you may not get a second chance.
Re flat peas and killing combines, I have noticed that since moving to no till, harvesting peas is much easy and the amount of soil entering the harvester has been reduced to almost zero because the ground is harder so the lifters work and don't try and dive all the time + forward speed is higher.

This is what i dont get with Zero Till/DD etc if the ground is harder how does anything grow?
Ask any keen Gardener i'll bet they couldnt grow there Veggies this way not ever
But us Farmers are being advised oh this is the way to the best crops to save costs etc etc
you know when you started school & 2+2=4 well too me its a bit like that.
i know one thing 2+2 deffo isnt 1
Here is another way too look at it, i leave land fallow for full 12months ok
the traffic from the previous years crop removals wheeling's even if there quite light are still there after 12months
it simply doesn't magically vanish.
Yes i could drill into this surface with the likes of my combi disc drill but underneath the depth of the Tines its still like a Tarmac Road
solid packed structure.
Its very easy to break this & not at huge cost neither but thats my point.
Now unless like in your wonderfull peas pics the land is what id class as lovely next to No clay content (FREE DRAINING) soil
then i can see it might work, thats where iam totally stuck i simply have very little soil here that resembles that.

Some of the last Fields ive sown with wheat for instance in early Oct, one after peas funny enuff, it had cattle muck applied so i ploughed it
i dont always after peas tho, then it was PH/ infront of PH Drill, yes it needed this its clay.
Anyhow it didnt get rolled but i wasnt overly bothered as it looked it good fettle,
chucked it down some 36hrs later & we had a lot of rain, & all the rest of Oct & most of Nov wasnt much better
The land now looks like its all been rolled. 90% has germinated half decent, iffy on headlands but thats just of the shear amount of Rain
Ive not seen the same fields headlands this bad ever before.
Now i might just rip the headlands up with the subby after 2020 harvest then heavy cultivate the whole field for the 2nd wheat
then PH Drill it again as i could poss get away without ploughing it that time.

But DD or Zero till its never gonna happen the type of Soil will afaik return less than half the current yields.

If i only had soil that would allow this...

 

[B'o'B]

no-dig veg gardening has been around for quite a while.
Soil is remarkable stuff, I’d be surprised if your soil couldn’t be no-tilled successfully, but it might not be easy to achieve it.

 

[Farma Parma]

no-dig veg gardening has been around for quite a while.
Soil is remarkable stuff, I’d be surprised if your soil couldn’t be no-tilled successfully, but it might not be easy to achieve it.

Well i take a sit down & a cup of Tea & eat more of that Humble Pie santa left me

 

[Farma Parma]

no-dig veg gardening has been around for quite a while.
Soil is remarkable stuff, I’d be surprised if your soil couldn’t be no-tilled successfully, but it might not be easy to achieve it.

Yeah its the poss major costs to attempt this that what i dont try it,
I'll go Min Till there is places for that but doing nowt isnt for me.
Yes i know Clive for instance with his 12m DD Horsch looks like its working in theory
but whats the soil like?? when some of the neighbours start this i'll consider looking at the job.
Some of them lads are 1000/2000ac setups & none doing any DD in anyway whatsoever.

 

[Farma Parma]

no-dig veg gardening has been around for quite a while.
Soil is remarkable stuff, I’d be surprised if your soil couldn’t be no-tilled successfully, but it might not be easy to achieve it.

No Combines nor Trailers Nor Balers etc etc tramping about in them Allotments mind!! there inlays the vast diff to Farming

 

[Wombat]

No Combines nor Trailers Nor Balers etc etc tramping about in them Allotments mind!! there inlays the vast diff to Farming

We just run the discs lightly over the top to create a tilth max and inch use the same tramlines year on year and it’s amazing how much firmer and better the soil travels now 15yrs later. My next stop would be full no till but my current establishment is so cheap I cannot justify going there yet. Keeping traffic off and letting the soil do it’s stuff is quite amazing what it will do.

 

[Farma Parma]

We just run the discs lightly over the top to create a tilth max and inch use the same tramlines year on year and it’s amazing how much firmer and better the soil travels now 15yrs later. My next stop would be full no till but my current establishment is so cheap I cannot justify going there yet. Keeping traffic off and letting the soil do it’s stuff is quite amazing what it will do.

Its the stuff under what any discs disturb that more concerns me.
Never found the likes of 3m discs go very deep, 5-6m to add some weight to make them work better
Then your into a lot of cash for the implement
Plus 9/10 years i sown fields diff ways. some i cant but i try where possible.
Plough them on diff angles also.
Going to try diff tines on my Horsch Cultivator next backend & do slightly less ploughing.
give me 10years i'll get there

 

[Two Tone]

This is what i dont get with Zero Till/DD etc if the ground is harder how does anything grow?
Ask any keen Gardener i'll bet they couldnt grow there Veggies this way not ever
But us Farmers are being advised oh this is the way to the best crops to save costs etc etc
you know when you started school & 2+2=4 well too me its a bit like that.
i know one thing 2+2 deffo isnt 1
Here is another way too look at it, i leave land fallow for full 12months ok
the traffic from the previous years crop removals wheeling's even if there quite light are still there after 12months
it simply doesn't magically vanish.
Yes i could drill into this surface with the likes of my combi disc drill but underneath the depth of the Tines its still like a Tarmac Road
solid packed structure.
Its very easy to break this & not at huge cost neither but thats my point.
Now unless like in your wonderfull peas pics the land is what id class as lovely next to No clay content (FREE DRAINING) soil
then i can see it might work, thats where iam totally stuck i simply have very little soil here that resembles that.

Some of the last Fields ive sown with wheat for instance in early Oct, one after peas funny enuff, it had cattle muck applied so i ploughed it
i dont always after peas tho, then it was PH/ infront of PH Drill, yes it needed this its clay.
Anyhow it didnt get rolled but i wasnt overly bothered as it looked it good fettle,
chucked it down some 36hrs later & we had a lot of rain, & all the rest of Oct & most of Nov wasnt much better
The land now looks like its all been rolled. 90% has germinated half decent, iffy on headlands but thats just of the shear amount of Rain
Ive not seen the same fields headlands this bad ever before.
Now i might just rip the headlands up with the subby after 2020 harvest then heavy cultivate the whole field for the 2nd wheat
then PH Drill it again as i could poss get away without ploughing it that time.

But DD or Zero till its never gonna happen the type of Soil will afaik return less than half the current yields.

If i only had soil that would allow this...

I have seen No-till peas grown on Cotswold Brash quite successfully this year. But it was at the end of a very wet June and an easy Spring for planting virtually anything.

However, I used to grow Vining Peas for Birdseye in Suffolk and one thing we absolutely learned there was that peas absolutely hate any form of compaction, whatsoever.

So much so, that most of the groups growing for Birdseye would “Pool” yield share all their crops for all the framers, in case some farmers had to drill their peas in bad conditions so as to keep the harvest order correct and prevent the harvesters from having to move too far or back to fields that were planted late.

What helped was the invention of the 8 metre Vaddy drill pulled by a Challenger, to minimise compaction and the taking over of having the peas drilled for you rather than trying to drill them yourself. This also helped get consistent drilling depth and emergence date too.

 

[Fish]

This is what i dont get with Zero Till/DD etc if the ground is harder how does anything grow?
Ask any keen Gardener i'll bet they couldnt grow there Veggies this way not ever
But us Farmers are being advised oh this is the way to the best crops to save costs etc etc
you know when you started school & 2+2=4 well too me its a bit like that.
i know one thing 2+2 deffo isnt 1
Here is another way too look at it, i leave land fallow for full 12months ok
the traffic from the previous years crop removals wheeling's even if there quite light are still there after 12months
it simply doesn't magically vanish.
Yes i could drill into this surface with the likes of my combi disc drill but underneath the depth of the Tines its still like a Tarmac Road
solid packed structure.
Its very easy to break this & not at huge cost neither but thats my point.
Now unless like in your wonderfull peas pics the land is what id class as lovely next to No clay content (FREE DRAINING) soil
then i can see it might work, thats where iam totally stuck i simply have very little soil here that resembles that.

Some of the last Fields ive sown with wheat for instance in early Oct, one after peas funny enuff, it had cattle muck applied so i ploughed it
i dont always after peas tho, then it was PH/ infront of PH Drill, yes it needed this its clay.
Anyhow it didnt get rolled but i wasnt overly bothered as it looked it good fettle,
chucked it down some 36hrs later & we had a lot of rain, & all the rest of Oct & most of Nov wasnt much better
The land now looks like its all been rolled. 90% has germinated half decent, iffy on headlands but thats just of the shear amount of Rain
Ive not seen the same fields headlands this bad ever before.
Now i might just rip the headlands up with the subby after 2020 harvest then heavy cultivate the whole field for the 2nd wheat
then PH Drill it again as i could poss get away without ploughing it that time.

But DD or Zero till its never gonna happen the type of Soil will afaik return less than half the current yields.

If i only had soil that would allow this...

Ok first, I know it's not easy to understand the difference between a no till field and a cultivated field as regards structure and probably the best way to understand the difference is to see it with your own eyes, then you could see what a well structured soil looks like as apposed to an unstructured slump prone mess.
I have seen this manny times, just before Christmas I was on a farm where we looked at a field that had been plough/combi for many years and then looked at a 10 year no till field over the headge, chalk and cheese.

Now going back to this farm, free draining, yes you could describe maybe 30% as free draining, the rest no way. Of the 30 or so fields that make up this farm only 3 are not under drained.

Taking the three pea photos, the top photo is looking down the headland, the soil is clay loam, when we used to plough, that soil plough over like bacon sides, two passes with a pw to get pin pong sized balls.
Photo 2, that is free draining sandy loam.
Photo 3, looking along the headland again, clay loam. That headland has always been the headland, it has had combines, balers, muck spreads, bale trailers, grain trailers over it and still it looks ok, can't see any wheelings.

I do have a field or three which are quite a challenge to no till, but these tend to have a drainage problem to start with and have a high silt fraction.
If you think clay ground is fun, then you want to try silty clay.

 

[Pilatus]

No till peas, three different years, three different fields.

Have you any pics that show how well these three fields were standing on the day of combining, the time that they need to be standing.??

 

[Fish]

Have you any pics that show how well these three fields were standing on the day of combining, the time that they need to be standing.??

Have you any pics that show how well these three fields were standing on the day of combining, the time that they need to be standing.??

no photos, but all were flatish at harvest, as peas almost always are.

 

[Farma Parma]

Ok first, I know it's not easy to understand the difference between a no till field and a cultivated field as regards structure and probably the best way to understand the difference is to see it with your own eyes, then you could see what a well structured soil looks like as apposed to an unstructured slump prone mess.
I have seen this manny times, just before Christmas I was on a farm where we looked at a field that had been plough/combi for many years and then looked at a 10 year no till field over the headge, chalk and cheese.

Now going back to this farm, free draining, yes you could describe maybe 30% as free draining, the rest no way. Of the 30 or so fields that make up this farm only 3 are not under drained.

Taking the three pea photos, the top photo is looking down the headland, the soil is clay loam, when we used to plough, that soil plough over like bacon sides, two passes with a pw to get pin pong sized balls.
Photo 2, that is free draining sandy loam.
Photo 3, looking along the headland again, clay loam. That headland has always been the headland, it has had combines, balers, muck spreads, bale trailers, grain trailers over it and still it looks ok, can't see any wheelings.

I do have a field or three which are quite a challenge to no till, but these tend to have a drainage problem to start with and have a high silt fraction.
If you think clay ground is fun, then you want to try silty clay.

this land might be silty clay i dunno But its challenging stuff if too dry & worse if too wet.
That Dry summer in 2018 did no end of good here.
Coming off the back of the worse spell of snow here in 40years also
Id take the beast from the east more often

 

[Bury the Trash]

how much Glyphosate to use to pre harvest and what volume and when ....on a very thick / tall crop please?

 

[Adeptandy]

how much Glyphosate to use to pre harvest and what volume and when ....on a very thick / tall crop please?

Are they clean of have you any weed ?

 

[Bury the Trash]

Are they clean of have you any weed ?

pretty good but some areas have got a bit of fathen