Weed wiper glyphosate

[Classichay]

afternoon all,

just finished my project weed wiper which I’m more than chuffed with ( pics to follow) what brand glypho do you guys opt for? I’ve a few gallons of clinicace 360g/l in the store. Or am I better buying roundup 460g/l, I’ve been told it has to be the genuine roundup active. And don’t be crazy strong as I’d burn the growth rather than translocate to the roots.

And on the front of damage control if I get a drip I’m not going to notice any large areas of loss am I?

Thanks C H

 

[deleted user 837354]

Check which products have weed wiping on the label to start with.

 

[Henarar]

afternoon all,

just finished my project weed wiper which I’m more than chuffed with ( pics to follow) what brand glypho do you guys opt for? I’ve a few gallons of clinicace 360g/l in the store. Or am I better buying roundup 460g/l, I’ve been told it has to be the genuine roundup active. And don’t be crazy strong as I’d burn the growth rather than translocate to the roots.

And on the front of damage control if I get a drip I’m not going to notice any large areas of loss am I?

Thanks C H

You won't get much trouble with it dripping in comparison to the rest of us

 

[Kidds]

You need to dilute it accordingly whichever brand you use. Don't use it neat.

 

[Classichay]

Check which products have weed wiping on the label to start with.

Issue is not many have it, I’ve managed to source some roundup proactive which is on label for hand weed wiping and boat boom spraying....

these companies say “check with your manufacturer” and the weed wiper companies say “check with your chemical producer”. I assume it’s a 40:1 mix or 20:1?

 

[Suffolksucklers]

Our weed wiper manufacturer told us 50/50

 

[Classichay]

Our weed wiper manufacturer told us 50/50

Jesus.... that’s strong. No room for cockups at that.

 

[Suffolksucklers]

Jesus.... that’s strong. No room for cockups at that.

Surely if you want to kill the weed you need a strength that will also kill wherever you "cock up"?? Also weedwipers surely limit mistakes in their very nature rather than a boom sprayer

 

[Classichay]

Surely if you want to kill the weed you need a strength that will also kill wherever you "cock up"?? Also weedwipers surely limit mistakes in their very nature rather than a boom sprayer

True, it’s learning curve. I’m using felt wicks rather than a rotating roller. I’m only targeting very sparse rushes

 

[Suffolksucklers]

True, it’s learning curve. I’m using felt wicks rather than a rotating roller. I’m only targeting very sparse rushes

We have a micron one which has a carpet, using it on sparse rushes and works well

 

[Classichay]

 

[deleted user 837354]

Issue is not many have it, I’ve managed to source some roundup proactive which is on label for hand weed wiping and boat boom spraying....

these companies say “check with your manufacturer” and the weed wiper companies say “check with your chemical producer”. I assume it’s a 40:1 mix or 20:1?

Follow the instructions on the label.

 

[Jontym]

20-1 and a squirt of fairy liquid

 

[Classichay]

20-1 and a squirt of fairy liquid

Perfect! Thankyou.

 

[michael N123]

If your wanting to use it for weeds on grassland be careful you don’t leave yellow wheel marks after every patch of nettles as the wheels are behind the brush

As I found out with my logic

 

[Two Tone]

Looks great.
My only worry would be that if the wheels follow the wiper. Wouldn’t they spread by trampling any Glyphosate from whatever weed you have just wiped onto the crop beneath?

In front, they would squash the weed down so that the wiper wouldn’t them.

A few years ago I tried building a wiper that would wipe Blackgrass seed heads above a crop of wheat. The trouble was that as the Blackgrass collapsed, it touched the Wheat and transferred the Glyphosate onto wheat and killed it. Either that or wind blowing it when there was a dew, transferred it.

Whichever, the wheat died and I abandoned the project.

 

[neilo]

afternoon all,

just finished my project weed wiper which I’m more than chuffed with ( pics to follow) what brand glypho do you guys opt for? I’ve a few gallons of clinicace 360g/l in the store. Or am I better buying roundup 460g/l, I’ve been told it has to be the genuine roundup active. And don’t be crazy strong as I’d burn the growth rather than translocate to the roots.

And on the front of damage control if I get a drip I’m not going to notice any large areas of loss am I?

Thanks C H

Glyphosate is glyphosate. 480g is more concentrated than 360g, so rates will be correspondingly lower. ‘Active’ formulations will have wetters included (at a significant cost increase) but you can/should add your own. A lot would use a squirt of washing up liquid to similar effect.

Photo is the recc from the label on a drum of Samurai (generic 360g glyphosate) that came the other day:

 

[Y Fan Wen]

The instructions with my Rotowiper said 1:20 with cupful of fairy and the drum should begin to drip 30 seconds after stopping. It wasn't long before I was on 1:40 and the drip starting a few seconds later. That's how I've gone on since then. PP seems to shrug off any wheelings quite quickly and drips only affect individual blades of grass. If I have to stop I do so with the roller in the thickest clump of bracken, rushes, nettles etc.. In PP don't expect it to be a once and for all operation. Go back every few weeks, especially with creeping thistle. You use so little active the cost isn't really a concern.
You need PA2f to be legal.

 

[daveydiesel1]

If ur wantin to kill rushes and nettles why are u for using roundup? Why not use mpca or the new version which is agritox iirc

 

[Ploughteringindubs]

Also have one thats bit of relic and doesn't get used nowadays but when I did use it 20y ago was told it was 50/50 mix from dad. Prefer just spraying nowadays, shame I learnt that rush seeds lay dormant for upto 30y before ploughing some old leys to get rid of them.