Welding broken digger arm

Kevtherev

Member
Location
Welshpool Powys
I have been working for local contractor as I have been doing for several months... he has 1973 Ford
4550 digger which is well used but still fully functional however today he got it well and truly stuck in wet spot after several attempts by pushing with back acter it was out but broke a previous repair of many years of the arm where it fits onto slew.. I am looking forward to doing some vertical and overhead welding
tomorrow in the middle of field using 3.25mm 6013 rods
One more thing I will mention is when I repaired broken hinge on trailer before Christmas and welding where I used to live an RAF jet flew over not every time but too many times to be coincidence
Did you get it mended after?
 

dave mountain

Member
Livestock Farmer
Takes a lot of work to do a professional job on such a repair. Personally I think you would need to be incredibly confident on your abilities.
completely agree. i wouldn't even bother trying in the field, just get it straight back to the workshop, minimum couple hours grinding id expect to get it suitable for a good repair. Then, fill it up with pulse spray MIG on 300+A. grind it flat, primer and top coat sprayed on with the air line, job done. burning in a couple 6013s with a cheapo welder is rarely a good idea for this kind of repair.
 

Wellytrack

Member
completely agree. i wouldn't even bother trying in the field, just get it straight back to the workshop, minimum couple hours grinding id expect to get it suitable for a good repair. Then, fill it up with pulse spray MIG on 300+A. grind it flat, primer and top coat sprayed on with the air line, job done. burning in a couple 6013s with a cheapo welder is rarely a good idea for this kind of repair.

TBH I’m out of my depth after 160 amps and half a pack of 2.5mm rods. That’s why I have a professional welder do anything remotely critical for me.
 
As i understand it only needs a lola on the back actor IF it has a lifting eye attached to it?
Most quick hitches have a lifting eye fitted (they are actually optional but nearly always standard fit) you'll often see them with a bolt through the eye so it can't be used without deliberately tampering with it. Keeps hire company or owner of machine in the clear if used for lifting without loler i assume.
 

Kevtherev

Member
Location
Welshpool Powys
completely agree. i wouldn't even bother trying in the field, just get it straight back to the workshop, minimum couple hours grinding id expect to get it suitable for a good repair. Then, fill it up with pulse spray MIG on 300+A. grind it flat, primer and top coat sprayed on with the air line, job done. burning in a couple 6013s with a cheapo welder is rarely a good idea for this kind of repair.
Those old fords used to crack in the same places I know this as we had lots of them in the 70s and 80s on land drainage.
The base of boom where I’m lead to believe she’s cracked is a cast piece welded to the main boom.
Proper prep would be to clean it and prep it by V out with grinder then pre heat the cast with gas before welding.
Preferably in a workshop.
 

dave mountain

Member
Livestock Farmer
Those old fords used to crack in the same places I know this as we had lots of them in the 70s and 80s on land drainage.
The base of boom where I’m lead to believe she’s cracked is a cast piece welded to the main boom.
Proper prep would be to clean it and prep it by V out with grinder then pre heat the cast with gas before welding.
Preferably in a workshop.
didnt realise its cast. if its cast it definitely needs preheat.
 
The job has been done but not as I would like it to be done as there was a rush to get it finished so the job could be completed.... the back acter was pushing in piles to finish fencing job
 

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