What is wrong with returning to ploughing?

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
A 20yo CO6 is 20grand, before you start converting it. Needs a big horse to pull it too. You're at new 3m Moore/Simtech money...and only need a smallish tractor. Good for 500ac, with a spread of crops, and you have a new machine, not one you can't pull that's already done a gazillion acres.
 

Cowcorn

Member
Mixed Farmer
What is the promised land for you? It’s not all about no till.
It changes almost Daily but i would say that keeping the yield and lowering the cost would be the sweet spot !! Mind you somtimes left is right and right is left if you know what i mean . Bit like the milk atm with high solids and winter bonuses the price a litre makes the May price look medicore .
 

Renaultman

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Darlington
A 20yo CO6 is 20grand, before you start converting it. Needs a big horse to pull it too. You're at new 3m Moore/Simtech money...and only need a smallish tractor. Good for 500ac, with a spread of crops, and you have a new machine, not one you can't pull that's already done a gazillion acres.
I keep looking at these Simtechs and wonder 'what's the catch?' I saw it working at Groundswell and it was dwarfed by the other drills but was doing, what looked like, a similar job.
It looks like how I would like a drill to look.
 

Cowcorn

Member
Mixed Farmer
What about a Simtech, you could get a new 3m box drill for less than that. If I'd had a crystal ball I would have bought a new 4m instead of the used Vaddy had I known the technology grant was coming back. I do like my system disc though.
I spent a day at the demo event in Oak park a few years ago where all the dd drills were put through their paces . To my eye the all appeared to be doing a good job of placing and covering seed but Oak park is Gods own land and would be very different to my mud pie . But youre right the simtech looks capable and affordable and probably be best for a start .
 

Pilatus

Member
Location
cotswolds
I have only just seen this thread, but from
my own experience on thin Cotswold brash,
ploughing to control weeds was not very successful due to such shallow soil , which doesn’t scour off plough mouldboards very well , so soil was just pushed to one side rather than inverted.
If one farms a good depth of soil that would be a different story.
 

Two Tone

Member
Mixed Farmer
I have only just seen this thread, but from
my own experience on thin Cotswold brash,
ploughing to control weeds was not very successful due to such shallow soil , which doesn’t scour off plough mouldboards very well , so soil was just pushed to one side rather than inverted.
If one farms a good depth of soil that would be a different story.
Although I am in the Cotswolds, I don’t actually have any Cotswold Brash. I do have some Banbury Ironstone which is rather similar, is very stony and a bugger to plough especially as it is all very banky. It does not like being ploughed up hill and it does seem to DD quite well (so far!).

The title of this thread was started with reference to returning to the Plough from Min-till rather than from DD.
I certainly found on this farm that so called Min-till, was no cheaper than ploughing and was actually Max-cost when it came to weed control, which just got worse and worse. Yields also went down primarily due to the worsening weed, especially BG situation. Returning to ploughing (properly!) got this situation back under control.

I am experimenting with DD to see how well it will work ahead of the direction that ELMS will hopefully encourage us go. So far I am encouraged by the results.

However, it took that returning to the plough for 4 years to get my BG situation back under control enough, before I dared attempt DD. I still have about a third of the farm that will need another year, or maybe 2 before I will DD it.
But I’m reasonably certain that it will eventually DD. And it must be done with absolutely the minimum of soil disturbance possible. Hence going straight for the Weaving GD, rather than starting off with a tine drill.
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Change was organic for me and still is (but not the style of farming but never say never) it started with drilling after potatoes and OSR where it seems sacrilegious to bury that lovely soil and bring clay up. Like you I work away from the farm a lot and can't afford a big failure. I started off with a used Simba Xpress and still using the combi until the Vaderstad turned up. The Xpress was £10,000 CW with seeder. I still have it now, then the Vaderstad just kind of fell in my lap. The time and cost savings are substantial and if you know your land you will know if it's going right or not. I certainly wouldn't get rid of the plough combi until you are happy with the replacement I still have mine now and still use it if required.
I have min till gear too. Old and nackered but does a job.
 
If you work more than 4 inches deep it is not min till more like vertical ploughing
min till back when straw could be burnt was 2 inches maximum
ploughing straw to the bottom of the furrow in a wet year on heavy land was not very profitable
 

Hereward

Member
Location
Peterborough
I've been tempted by a Simtech before, could it cope with drilling an AB9 stewardship mix into a messy fallow and then subsequently drilling AB9 seed into a sprayed off AB9?

It's this type of scenario where I think ploughing is the only option, perhaps I'm being to blinkered.

Likewise drilling WW into a messy extended overwinter stubble?

And I will have wheelings to deal with it, the hedge cutter, combine etc. I know I can have fixed tramlines.
 

D14

Member
I've been tempted by a Simtech before, could it cope with drilling an AB9 stewardship mix into a messy fallow and then subsequently drilling AB9 seed into a sprayed off AB9?

It's this type of scenario where I think ploughing is the only option, perhaps I'm being to blinkered.

Likewise drilling WW into a messy extended overwinter stubble?

And I will have wheelings to deal with it, the hedge cutter, combine etc. I know I can have fixed tramlines.

I’ve found the best way is to top off the AB9 and then glyphosate and then direct drill into that at least 4 weeks later, but the longer the better as our soil stays wet so needs the cover removing to dry out.
 

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